80 Main Street, Gunthorpe, Notts. NG14 7EU. tel. 0115 9663711 email. info@pontefino.co.uk
You will find Pontefino's where the old Anchor pub used to be at the riverside, Gunthorpe. I mean it literally - this is where the Anchor used to be. Pontefino's is not just a perfectly serviceable tarting up of a boozer into a restaurant, a subtle refurbishment in which you can still feel the spirit of the former building and catch a glimpse of the ghost of the place. It is a complete eradication of all traces of the the previous venue. Completely unrecognisable now with its pristine decor, clean white walls, cool spaces and sparkling glass. Handsome, classy, confident and clearly contrived to impress. If one might employ anthropomorphism then Pontefino's would be a date dressed to seduce, someone who had clearly spent considerable time in front of the mirror straightening a tie, smoothing back hair, tilting their head left then right in admiration of a fine profile, knowing - with arrogant certainty - they could never be a disappointment.
Perhaps I would have done without the framed black & white rat pack prints (natch): Frank, Dean and Sammy kicking back. I get the message. You are a modern Italian restaurant. You are cool. Yes, yes... and do bear in mind this is still Gunthorpe chaps, by the river with its narrowboats moored up, the fantasy can only be taken so far before it becomes a pastiche. And with that in mind note the effortlessly skillfull (and much too good looking) Italian waiters working both a cliche and the room, shoes polished to a blinding gleam, all artful stubble and slickly professional charm. But if this desciption makes Pontefino's seem too cold for you, please don't get me wrong: it isn't. Service is warm and welcoming, the owner himself gave us a tour (nice old school touch that), couples at our neighbouring tables were chatting to each other about menu choices. And it is relaxing - despite the 'shiny' smartness. GastroChap was soon unwinding with some Cabernet del Veneto, the house red, fruity and bright with a pleasantly surprising spicy finish, as we enjoyed a wonderfully light and flavoursome garlic bread for a starter and bowl of olives.
The Flower knew what she wanted even before we arrived (she is one for her online research of menus) and could not wait to order the Pesce Spada - her absolute favourite: chargrilled swordfish marinated in oil, garlic, lemon and herbs. It came served with roasted veg and french fries. Spot on. A generous portion of fish steak and cooked to prefection. I went with Spiedino di Manzo: chargrilled pieces of succulent fillet beef marinated in oil, garlic and saffron. Best piece of meat I've had for a while. Doubtless I was grinning as I went to work on it. Nicely presented too on a wooden serving board with a hollowed out yellow pepper (hiding more lovely portions of beef), with tomato, salad and a bowl of fries.
I never even had a chance to try The Flower's tiramisu as it was wolfed down with embarrasing speed before I had even finished my espresso. She assures me it was a decent effort (but lacked a boozy punch). Perhaps I will get a chance to try for myself someday soon!
A good evening, if a tad pricey.
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