The Manner Arms, Knipton.

Here we find another of those 'cannot wait to show this to city-based friends' Inns clustering around Belvoir Castle. All of the GastroChap essentials are pleasingly ticked off: quaint secluded village setting; gravelled drive and parking area full of 4x4s; beautiful old building (with cheery red door and glimpses of lambently lit comfort inside); plush accommodation available with special rates on Sundays, exclusivity (who but Vale locals even knows about it?); the promise of local ales and some well-kept favourites; open fire; well-chosen wine list, free papers; bookshelves (and lending too) and a decent dining reputation.

November, and I could have done without the occasional Christmas tune on the otherwise pleasing music mix (Counting Crows. Tom Petty). A quiet Saturday lunch with most customers eating in a dining room not overly formal but country kitchen charming, segregated thenselves from those enjoying hearty bar snacks and belly-busting sandwiches in front of a roaring fire, while they no doubt plumped for fuller menu options and the tantalising option of local game such as Belvoir estate partridge and Melton venison.

Lunch is unsurprising yet tasty, generous and not fussy. Nice to see fresh moules amongst the winter warmer choices and hearty fare. Service is prompt, casual, friendly. Given the Manners Arms location and the pedigree of the establishment you might be forgiven in thinking it would be more remote and snobby. Not so.

We come here a lot. Typically after the first fire in our cottage has been lit and the temperamental boiler gets set on a timer. Then we're looking for a comfort and The Manners is a winner in winter. It feels seasonally right and a snug treat. Not to dismiss the lovely modern conservatory and terraced dining area at the back, the landscaped garden worth enjoying in summer sunshine. Yet with its real fire cracking and popping in the grate, comfy leather armchairs, warmth and character, the bar area at The Manners is pretty hard to beat locally.

The Wheatsheaf, Dry Doddington

Dry Doddington, Newark, Lincolnshire, NG23 5HU. tel 01400 281458 www.wheatsheaf-pub.co.uk 

 

We were navigating the idyllic villages near the market town of Newark, sans SatNav. Our direction was little more than spur of the moment. The journey was defined by a sleepy wave of a hand, a shrug at a crossroads, a "you choose" lack of planning and, at best, a finger pointing at whatever village had the quaintest name on a roadsign, like 'Hough on the Hill' or 'Dry Doddington'. These little expeditions into rural terra incognita are always punctuated by The Flower's pronouncements of "I'd buy that", "that would be my house", "don't like the way they've done the windows" or a wrinkled nose and "manure! Urgh!" As if we don't already live in a listed cottage in a fine old village across from a stable.

Stumbling upon the Marple-esque beauty of Dry Doddington can be the upshot of these outings. A place put there to inspire property-envy in those passing through. Reminded GastroChap of the villages in kid's TV programmes from the late '70s and early '80s like 'Children of the Stones' or Pertwee-Baker era Dr Who. Gorgeous but distinctly quirky. Take for example its little village green complete with church, its spire like a crooked finger, and picturesque and traditional pub. Like a film set waiting for actors, the film crew cunningly hidden from shot. Streets quiet. Very few people can be seen. Peaceful. Who knows (in a Midsommer moment) what might be happening behind shutters and net curtains. Ever read Bradbury's perfect novel 'The Martian Chronicles' (first published as 'The Silver Locusts') and filmed for TV in '80s with Rock Hudson? There is a haunting section which sees astronauts landing on Mars only to find themselves in smalltown America: white picket fences, flags flying... (Michael Bay clearly finds this stereotype resonant). The archetypal vision, here peopled dreamily by dead friends and relatives. Once the initial shock and fear is overcome the visitors start to question the situation logically. Can they believe what they have found? Is this an illusion or is this heaven? Did they somehow die during the journey to Mars? Various theories are entertained but the astronauts are lulled into a false sense of security. Their suspicions are overcome. Doubts bled away. They are seduced by nostalgia. They do not act on concerns that this might be a Martian trap. One by one the astronauts are slaughtered, peacefully, in their sleep by aliens who come to them disguised as loved ones.

Why did this come to mind? Bit spooky for a spot of lunch in the late August sunshine. I think because if I had to conjure up an image of the quintessential English village it would be Dry Doddington. Timeless, in the sense that you cannot see much in the way of modern trappings: even SKY dishes are inobtrusive and generally hidden, most vehicles seemed to be old jeeps, most of the pub's clientelle dressed in country casual garb or farm / estate working wear. Clearly if I were signed up for a trip to Bradbury's Mars I won't be so easily fooled.

The Wheatsheaf is a fine looking venue, parts dating back 600 years. White painted exteriors, with a gravelled drinking area at the front presenting you views of the green and the nearby church. The kind of pub so beloved of Hollywood's idea of everyday British drinking (and for some a blessed reality of course). Inside there is a well-appointed bar area with plenty of real ales (delicious Timothy Taylor Landlord served in the correct glass) and good wine choices. Snug little drinking areas with wood burning stoves, decked out smartly in country chic with throws, rugs and cushions. A more formal dining area at the back - but perfectly comfortable. Wooden beams (but of course), and all trim and tidy. The sort of place you can enjoy on a gorgeously sunny day eating rather tasty bacon and brie sandwiches out the front (with homemade chips - double baked, crisp and then spot-on fluffy), with a flight of wasps stuka-dive bombing your golden ale. And then picture at Christmas, decked out traditionally, swaddled in snow, with fires roaring and hearty food steaming on the tables.

I can't imagine us not returning before then.   

      

    

The Riverside, Farndon

North End, Farndon, Notts. NG24 3SX www.riversidefarndon.co.uk

Is there any polite way to eat a decent, generously portioned club sandwich? Especially one layered with thick cut fluffy fresh bread? Nope, didn't think so. The one served up to GastroChap this lunchtime defeated civilised nibbling. Served up on branded (very swish) greaseproof paper on a platter (not a plate) and loaded with thick cut bacon, tomato, chicken and slathered in rather delicious mayonnaise... hardly dainty. Nice bowl of homemade fries too (there is an option to hit the salad bar instead of the fries). Came with a knife and fork of course, but who eats a cold sandwich with cutlery? Not I. So to work, manfully ploughing in and not a pretty picture I daresay (to which one might add Mayo on the chin). Good quality pub fayre, washed down with what is becoming the ubiquitous pint of Old Speckled Hen. The Flower went for the cheese and pickle sandwich - with a commendably sharp, mature and tangy cheddar.
The Riverside has changed considerably since it's days as The Britannia Inn. It now has to it a lush, plush almost colonial vibe. Lots of expensive looking gleaming wood, very comfortable seating, cushions, and ferns. Uniformed, young staff are keen and helpful, they work the dining spaces smoothly - checking on guests with just the right amount of formality without service impinging on a relaxed, casual lunch.
Menu is pleasingly tempting for two reasons: firstly it's uncomplicated and well balanced with nothing too fancy or fussy. Secondly it's surprisingly reasonable. Lunch for two with sides and drinks came to under £20. And free wifi with a good signal is always a welcome bonus.

The Riverside, Farndon

North End, Farndon, Notts. NG24 3SX www.riversidefarndon.co.uk

Is there any polite way to eat a decent, generously portioned club sandwich? Especially one layered with thick cut fluffy fresh bread? Nope, didn't think so. The one served up to GastroChap this lunchtime defeated civilised nibbling. Served up on branded (very swish) greaseproof paper on a platter (not a plate) and loaded with thick cut bacon, tomato, chicken and slathered in rather delicious mayonnaise... hardly dainty. Nice bowl of homemade fries too (there is an option to hit the salad bar instead of the fries). Came with a knife and fork of course, but who eats a cold sandwich with cutlery? Not I. So to work, manfully ploughing in and not a pretty picture I daresay (to which one might add Mayo on the chin). Good quality pub fayre, washed down with what is becoming the ubiquitous pint of Old Speckled Hen. The Flower went for the cheese and pickle sandwich - with a commendably sharp, mature and tangy cheddar.
The Riverside has changed considerably since it's days as The Britannia Inn. It now has to it a lush, plush almost colonial vibe. Lots of expensive looking gleaming wood, very comfortable seating, cushions, and ferns. Uniformed, young staff are keen and helpful, they work the dining spaces smoothly - checking on guests with just the right amount of formality without service impinging on a relaxed, casual lunch.
Menu is pleasingly tempting for two reasons: firstly it's uncomplicated and well balanced with nothing too fancy or fussy. Secondly it's surprisingly reasonable. Lunch for two with sides and drinks came to under £20. And free wifi with a good signal is always a welcome bonus.

The Riverside, Gunthorpe

North End, Farndon, Notts. NG24 3SX www.riversidefarndon.co.uk

Is there any polite way to eat a decent, generously portioned club sandwich? Especially one layered with thick cut fluffy fresh bread? Nope, didn't think so. The one served up to GastroChap this lunchtime defeated civilised nibbling. Served up on branded (very swish) greaseproof paper on a platter (not a plate) and loaded with thick cut bacon, tomato, chicken and slathered in rather delicious mayonnaise... hardly dainty. Nice bowl of homemade fries too (there is an option to hit the salad bar instead of the fries). Came with a knife and fork of course, but who eats a cold sandwich with cutlery? Not I. So to work, manfully ploughing in and not a pretty picture I daresay (to which one might add Mayo on the chin). Good quality pub fayre, washed down with what is becoming the ubiquitous pint of Old Speckled Hen. The Flower went for the cheese and pickle sandwich - with a commendably sharp, mature and tangy cheddar.
The Riverside has changed considerably since it's days as The Britannia Inn. It now has to it a lush, plush almost colonial vibe. Lots of expensive looking gleaming wood, very comfortable seating, cushions, and ferns. Uniformed, young staff are keen and helpful, they work the large dining spaces smoothly - checking on diners with just the right amount of formality without service impinging on a relaxed, casual lunch.
Menu is pleasingly tempting for two reasons: firstly it's uncomplicated and well balanced with nothing too fancy or fussy. Secondly it's surprisingly reasonable. Lunch for two with sides and drinks came to under £20. And free wifi with a good signal is always a welcome bonus.

Pontefino's Italian Restaurant & Bar

80 Main Street, Gunthorpe, Notts. NG14 7EU. tel. 0115 9663711 email. info@pontefino.co.uk

You will find Pontefino's where the old Anchor pub used to be at the riverside, Gunthorpe. I mean it literally - this is where the Anchor used to be. Pontefino's is not just a perfectly serviceable tarting up of a boozer into a restaurant, a subtle refurbishment in which you can still feel the spirit of the former building and catch a glimpse of the ghost of the place. It is a complete eradication of all traces of the the previous venue. Completely unrecognisable now with its pristine decor, clean white walls, cool spaces and sparkling glass. Handsome, classy, confident and clearly contrived to impress. If one might employ anthropomorphism then Pontefino's would be a date dressed to seduce, someone who had clearly spent considerable time in front of the mirror straightening a tie, smoothing back hair, tilting their head left then right in admiration of a fine profile, knowing - with arrogant certainty - they could never be a disappointment.

Perhaps I would have done without the framed black & white rat pack prints (natch): Frank, Dean and Sammy kicking back. I get the message. You are a modern Italian restaurant. You are cool. Yes, yes... and do bear in mind this is still Gunthorpe chaps, by the river with its narrowboats moored up, the fantasy can only be taken so far before it becomes a pastiche. And with that in mind note the effortlessly skillfull (and much too good looking) Italian waiters working both a cliche and the room, shoes polished to a blinding gleam, all artful stubble and slickly professional charm. But if this desciption makes Pontefino's seem too cold for you, please don't get me wrong: it isn't. Service is warm and welcoming, the owner himself gave us a tour (nice old school touch that), couples at our neighbouring tables were chatting to each other about menu choices. And it is relaxing - despite the 'shiny' smartness. GastroChap was soon unwinding with some Cabernet del Veneto, the house red, fruity and bright with a pleasantly surprising spicy finish, as we enjoyed a wonderfully light and flavoursome garlic bread for a starter and bowl of olives.

The Flower knew what she wanted even before we arrived (she is one for her online research of menus) and could not wait to order the Pesce Spada - her absolute favourite: chargrilled swordfish marinated in oil, garlic, lemon and herbs. It came served with roasted veg and french fries. Spot on. A generous portion of fish steak and cooked to prefection. I went with Spiedino di Manzo: chargrilled pieces of succulent fillet beef marinated in oil, garlic and saffron. Best piece of meat I've had for a while. Doubtless I was grinning as I went to work on it. Nicely presented too on a wooden serving board with a hollowed out yellow pepper (hiding more lovely portions of beef), with tomato, salad and a bowl of fries.

I never even had a chance to try The Flower's tiramisu as it was wolfed down with embarrasing speed before I had even finished my espresso. She assures me it was a decent effort (but lacked a boozy punch). Perhaps I will get a chance to try for myself someday soon! 

A good evening, if a tad pricey.  

 

The Crown Inn, Spruxton

Coston Road, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE14 4QB

Up from Belvoir Castle and following winding lanes through shafts of verigated light, with dense woods to the sides and sudden glimpses of fields of sheep, pointing the Beer Waggon in the direction of the distinctly Narnia-esque sounding Croxton Kerrial, heading deep into the Vale on a tip off from one of the regulars at our firendly local The Marquis at Granby. The shaggy Neil - a Big Lebowski type who wears baggy shorts and sandals in all seasons - mentioned we might like the Crown Inn at Sproxton (pronounced "Sproseton" - go figure). Easy enough journey. Only a few miles from the Castle itself and familiar ground. So how had we missed the Crown?

GastroChap is finding it directly and logically proportional that the more of the local area he explores, the more hidden gems are uncovered. Frustrating to a degree, as he wishes he'd know about The Crown much earlier as it is lovely. Just his cup of tea - or pint of well-kept casque ale.

Sproxton is fine little village. If you are familiar with the buildings of Stamford you will recognise the buttery yellow stone used to construct the cottages. The Crown Inn itself is easy enough to find on Coston Road. An imposing and romantic facade, all glossy ivy on stone, a carpark at the back revealing a terraced drinking area with fountain, a Spanish style outdoor space complete with faux Moroccan tiles and heaters. Very nice for some sunshine boozing. Inside and you face that perpetual drinker's choice: to the left, a door marked 'Bar'; to the right 'Lounge'. Head to the bar and you signal that you mean business and are set for a session, take a step to the right and the lounge and that might indicate a tentative tourist. The bar at The Crown is tiny, little more than a snug (resembling someone's cottage reading room, full of papers and magazines, books, a couple of tables and a sofa. The Lounge is bigger and very pleasing, with a well-judged take on shabby chic: a juxtaposition of big restful sofas and chrome stools at the bar itself, with low lighting from lamps dotted here and there, solidly unpretentious old tables scattered about, and a mix of ecclectic ornaments. It is a very relaxing space in which to enjoy a decent pint of Old Speckled Hen or Greene King IPA (Pimms at £3.50 a glass, Champagne cocktails at £5.50).  A more formal dining room can be found towards the rear - very well appointed with some stylish touches and space for up to 30.

          

The menu is straightforward and tempting. Sarters include an antipasto of smoked, cured seafood and continental meats; chicken liver and brandy terrine; halloumi and quail egg caesar salad. Mains include griddled pork T-bone with calvados apples topped with stilton; baked monkfish with tomato and basil and a rose marie pesto; stuffed escalopes of pork fillet wrapped with prosciutto and served with wild mushroom and marsala sauce. As we were only popping in for a quick lunch we settled for (me) a substantial baquette filled with a tasty bacon, brie and juicy tomatoes and (The Flower) an unfussy a tangy cheddar cheese and red onion sandwich. Each came with a large fresh salad and a serving of homemade pickle, to which we added a bowl of thick cut handmade chips. All most pleasing.

 

 

The Grill Room at the Horse & Plough, Bingham

The Grill Room Restaurant, 25 Longacre, Bingham, Notts. NG13 8AF. tel. 01949 839313 

You will find The Grill Room upstairs at the CAMRA award-winning Horse & Plough in Bingham. Give yourself enough time to sample the atmosphere of this pub with its connoisseur’s range of ales, beamed ceilings and stone floors. The Plough often has a good cross section of local beers and keeps a very decent cellar. You may need to employ a little elbow work to get to the bar as it is always busy, whereas the restaurant itself has been refurbished making an intimate and comfortable dining space in which to relax. The kitchen is also serving up some very good value for money bar food (if, that is, you can find an unoccupied table).  Owned by Carl Bartsch and run by son Gareth, this is a family business with strong ties to the community, some of its waiting staff making up for a lack of experience with genuine friendly attitudes, seemingly picked from a pool of kids from Bingham's Toothill School sixth form. Interestingly Bartsch Inns are making inroads further into the Vale of Belvoir and have taken over The Manor Arms at Knipton, once owned by the Duchess, the village itself plum in the heart of the Belvoir estate. 

 

The menu usually offers a modern twist on traditional grill fare along with crowd-pleasers such as Smoked Haddock with wholegrain mustard mash, buttered spinach in a chive hollandaise topped with a poached egg; Rack of Lamb with seasonal vegetables, rosemary potatoes and herb jus; and Butternut and Cashew Nut Curry on a bed of coconut and coriander rice. The emphasis here is on the finest, freshest ingredients and great value for money. The beef steaks themselves are locally sourced and matured for at least 21 days, and the grill menu also includes fresh fish and some welcome (and surprising) additions like Ostrich and Kangaroo. The wine list is comprehensive, reasonably priced, with monthly special offers and a helpful section suggesting perfect matches for the food. Have to say it works best for couples or small parties. A large group booking can (and has, as we can testify) leave the waiting staff in a dither, with some rather variable food being served. 

 

Yet our last visit was defined by both exceptional plates of food and smoothly professional service. We began with Smoked Haddock & Prawn Fishcakes which were tasty and well-textured and a Salad of Wood Pigeon (from the local Belvoir estate), perfectly cooked and succulent. These were followed by a Mixed Grill, challenging with its meaty abundance, each component cooked wonderfully, and a Trio of Pork comprising of belly pork, spicy sausage and smoked bacon which only showcases the wonderful produce. We each finished with a Bailey’s Bread & Butter Pudding with coffee cream which is incredibly light, soft and melts in the mouth.

Nice to have the option of a decent, unfussy place like this on your doorstep and it serves the villages well, but I can't imagine The Grill Room drawing in diners from further than Radcliffe on Trent with Nottingham's restaurant scene so close. 

The Windmill Inn, Redmile

4 Main Street, Redmile, Notts. NG13 0GA. Tel. 01949 842281

 

www.windmillinn-redmile.co.uk

 

The Windmill is situated in the village of Redmile, a short distance from historic Belvoir Castle. The old country inn looks a treat lit up as you approach on a winter’s night and in more clement months you will find customers relaxing at outside tables, sipping expertly made Pimms and G & Ts while studying the weekly changing menu.

 

It was a cold, rainy night in November when we first visited and we relished the comfy leather sofas, plump cushions, low beamed ceilings and crackling open fire of the lounge-bar. Now we try to pop by whenever we can. The bar itself is well-stocked offering, amongst others, Peroni, Aspell cider, draught Adnams and Spitfire (recommended), local Belvoir cordials and an excellent wine list. The Windmill boasts two comfortable dining rooms, a wood burning stove, exposed brick walls and beams. These are relaxing, unfussy, unpretentious, and the atmosphere is convivial.

 

The food is fabulous and there are plenty of exceptional offers on the set menus both at lunch and dinner (and I firmly believe the Sunday lunches are the best in locality). Fresh seasonal produce comes from the surrounding countryside to make a memorable fine dining experience that is also great value for money.  We began with Pan Fried Belvoir Pheasant with Sage Risotto and Poached Farm Egg, perfectly balancing flavours and textures with the sympathetically cooked, locally sourced bird, and Pan Fried Mediterranean Prawns from the grill menu, sweet and succulent, cooked simply with garlic butter to showcase the flavour. We followed with a Seasonal Game Pie (again, with produce from the Belvoir Estate), deeply rich and meaty, and an 8oz Homemade Burger made with fresh herbs and served with perfect chips. Try to leave room for tempting deserts such as Belgian Waffle with Vanilla Ice cream and Toffee Sauce.                            

 

The Windmill’s reputation is justified - there is a great buzz about the place. Proprietors David and Kirsten, with the help of their professional and friendly team, have made this one of the most charming venues in the area.  

The Courtyard Deli, at the Old Post Office, Bingham, Notts.

Tapas needs atmosphere to be truly enjoyable. That kind of sharing, an hour spent in lazy grazing, table top filled with small bowls and plates of delicious nibbles; a mix of flavours and textures washed down with a jug of sangria or (my favourite) a light, chilled fruity red wine, relaxed, unpretentious... Preferably an early warm evening al fresco. Above all the venue needs to make you feel relaxed and unselfconscious. Tapas is the perfect post-work wind down.
The Market town of Bingham boasts a perfectly respectable little Deli. Nothing stand out. Decent. What it really does well for all the reasons above is a tapas menu at only £10 a head for two (3 dishes each, glass of house wine). And the courtyard area at The Courtyard is perfect. Nicely appointed with a great atmosphere. Comfortable outdoor eating, friendly diners, good buzz helped by very generously priced delicious wines, perfect strangers soon happily chatting away together between the tables, a really 'local' feel.
Nothing new about the dishes - all your tapas staples are here (really zingy patas bravas). Safe bets. Local produce sourced where possible.
Thoroughly recommended - but booking advisable.

Raise a glass to Stein

Had the pleasure of hosting a signing for the lovely Rick Stein last month. He was in Waterstone's Nottingham signing copies of his new cook book / travel 'guide' Rick Stein's Spain, a promo tour to coincide with the BBC2 series of the same name. I'd timed the signing to follow smartly on from the Nottingham Food & Drink Festival which saw venues in the city open up to all sorts of special demonstrations, tasting sessions and offers - with the Old Market Square filled with fine food purveyors and stalls of the finest local fayre.

Delighted to report that Mr Stein was as adorably passionate and charmingly genuine as he is on TV. Very nervous that he wouldn't match that perceived persona. What a gent! Lot of marketing for the signing meant a big 100+ crowd and plenty of sales.
I had prepared a sample spread of Nottingham produce in the green room: sourced from our dear independents Delilah & The Cheese Shop: Colston Bassett Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher, Mrs King's Pork Pie, fresh bread washed down with Belvoir Vale Elderflower cordial.
All of this he enthused about. Stating his delight that the area has some of his favourite goodies, and how lucky we are to have such yummy abundance.

Staunton Arms

It was heartening to discover that the rural charm of its location and the enticingly beautiful old building that makes The Staunton Arms, Staunton, Notts such a winning venue is under new management. God, what a shambles the previous owners were. I recall a microwave Lasagne so greasy the pasta nearly slipped from it's dish like a malformed deep sea fish (and it smelled oddly fishy too). Insipid unloved beers. Fuck all decent wine. Coach parties of old crusties for clientele. Distinctly depressing.
No longer!
There is a new sheriff in town and this fellow has gunned down anyone connected to that former incarnation. Now the Staunton Arms is unrecognisable. Posh wood and smart furnishings mingle with country Inn decor. Tremendous hearty menu cooked with passion and generosity. Cracking ales (including my fave Harvest Pale). Wonderful terraced beer deck overlooking the smartest farm I've ever seen. Class.

Reindeer Inn, Hovringham, Notts.

Completely unspoiled little gem, hidden away in the village of Hovringham, a lazy Sunday stroll away from the banks of the River Trent and just down the road from commendable, tempting (but pricey) Gonalston Farm Shop. Nothing special to look at from it's facade, a touch - dare I say it - rundown, utterly authentic, messy, charmingly authentic and rough around the edges. Inside, a nice discovery: a communal library of old paperbacks and videos left by the villagers. You can tell a lot about the clientele from it's collective reading choices - a bit of William Boyd, a pinch of Binchy, a shiver of bestselling thrillers - make of it what you will. The bar area is refreshingly untouched by gastropub styling (no cream walls and brown leather sofas). This is distinctly, cheekily retro - probably no change since the 70s - with creaky chairs, scarred tables, crap decorations, and an unashamedly roaring, smoky fire. Chummy, unpretentious and friendly. Superbly kept local ales from Castle Rock and Caythorpe Breweries. Free papers, real characters, an affectionate Ginger pub cat, and a no-fuss, gutsy country pub menu. Food is no frills 'proper' crowd-pleasing favourites cooked with real love. Prices are good and come as a surprise given the consistency and quality. Within half an our you feel as comfortable as a local and that is rare quality to enjoy. Highly recommended, but don't tell everyone!!

Chesterfield Arms

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