Sunday 20 June 2010


Farndon Boathouse
The Riverside, Farndon, Newark, Notts. NG24 3SX
Tel. 01636 676578 info@farndonboathouse.co.uk


Now and again – weather, mood and level of sobriety permitting – you can just about will your mind free from everyday concerns and, caught up in the moment, forget how finite the weekend is. For no more than a few fleeting hours on a Friday night, or a transient and tragically short sense of release on a Saturday, you can almost convince yourself that the working week is not waiting to ensnare you in its gears once more. Perhaps, given the right venue, you can picture yourself being on holiday and enjoying an unhurried lunch beneath unblemished skies. That feeling of escape is not something The Gastrosexualist thought to discover by the banks of the River Trent near Newark. Yet there it was: the perfect combination of glorious Saturday weather, a great location for al fresco lunch, fantastic service, great decor, chilled out music and the enticing aroma of skilful cooking, everything meshing in order to create this wonderful illusion.
The success of The Boathouse at Farndon is certainly not illusionary. Voted runner up in the ‘best newcomer’ and ‘best out of town venue’ categories in the 2009 Nottingham Restaurant Awards it generates plenty of buzz in the area and is always being recommended. The Gastrosexualist is not one to put awards above positive word of mouth from trusted sources, yet there has been plenty of affirmation for this stylish, polished, modern and exciting venue from the team behind Tom Browns at Gunthorpe and the newly opened Riverbank on Trent Bridge (a visit in the offing soon). One friend makes the trip to The Boathouse on the strength of the fat (triple fried) chips alone; another (a scoundrel we shall call ‘Papa’, not for his dubious taste in the age of partners I hasten to add, but for his Hemmingway-esque, macho leanings) calls the place a “deal maker”. When pressed Papa, notorious womaniser, points out that The Boathouse looks so good and so classy that it appears he is making an enormous effort, thus impressing his date. Style by association one might suppose.
Just the other day, after a trip to bustling Newark Market (we are always in need of some triple smoked bacon from Porter’s, the butchers just off the square opposite HSBC bank) we decided to treat ourselves to lunch. Turning off the A46 and heading into Farndon we followed clear signage through the village to The Boathouse where we found ample parking. I could see what Papa had been insinuating right away. The Boathouse looks fab. Admittedly, The Gastrosexualist tends to haunt the more rustic venues of The Vale of Belvoir, and this is nothing like those traditional old inns and coaching houses. No, The Boathouse is modern, sophisticated, clean and airy, with lots of gleaming chrome and glass mixing with modern stone effects, plenty of decking and a spacious veranda which opens out onto riverside views. The bar area is a thing of beauty with some excellent design features built around natural slate. Clearly effort has been put into creating a signature style. A decent choice of bottled and draught beers, spirits and wines is offered. We took a seat outside, noting that the boathouse theme includes warm, fluffy ‘guest’ towels to use as blankets if the weather turns chilly.
Pleasing lunch menu, perused while enjoying a pint of Old Speckled Hen. Thoughtful choices, ingredients locally sourced where possible (The Boathouse has its own herb garden on site) and with some meat and fish home-smoked. We decided on something unfussy. I opted for the English Mustard and Maple Roasted Ham, Cooked on the Bone, with Runny Egg and Triple Cooked Fat Chips, and Home Made Piccalilli. This was superb. The chips live up to their reputation, that crisp skin yielding to beautifully soft potato, wonderfully seasoned. The ham itself was generously portioned, thick cut and flavoursome. My wife took on the Thai Fish Cakes with Tempura King Prawns, Wasabi Mayonnaise & Sweet Chilli & Coriander Sauce, fishcakes moistly delicious with a good crumb, prawns plump and fresh, batter perfectly crisp, dipping sauces piquant and lip-smacking. Very commendable stuff, and already we were choosing options from the menu for our next visit.
The Gastrosexualist will certainly be returning. Papa, however, is said to be mending his ways and appears to be settling down at last with just the one partner, saving his pennies to put down a deposit on an apartment in West Bridgford, and will not be visiting anytime soon. Or so he claims...