The Manner Arms, Knipton.

Here we find another of those 'cannot wait to show this to city-based friends' Inns clustering around Belvoir Castle. All of the GastroChap essentials are pleasingly ticked off: quaint secluded village setting; gravelled drive and parking area full of 4x4s; beautiful old building (with cheery red door and glimpses of lambently lit comfort inside); plush accommodation available with special rates on Sundays, exclusivity (who but Vale locals even knows about it?); the promise of local ales and some well-kept favourites; open fire; well-chosen wine list, free papers; bookshelves (and lending too) and a decent dining reputation.

November, and I could have done without the occasional Christmas tune on the otherwise pleasing music mix (Counting Crows. Tom Petty). A quiet Saturday lunch with most customers eating in a dining room not overly formal but country kitchen charming, segregated thenselves from those enjoying hearty bar snacks and belly-busting sandwiches in front of a roaring fire, while they no doubt plumped for fuller menu options and the tantalising option of local game such as Belvoir estate partridge and Melton venison.

Lunch is unsurprising yet tasty, generous and not fussy. Nice to see fresh moules amongst the winter warmer choices and hearty fare. Service is prompt, casual, friendly. Given the Manners Arms location and the pedigree of the establishment you might be forgiven in thinking it would be more remote and snobby. Not so.

We come here a lot. Typically after the first fire in our cottage has been lit and the temperamental boiler gets set on a timer. Then we're looking for a comfort and The Manners is a winner in winter. It feels seasonally right and a snug treat. Not to dismiss the lovely modern conservatory and terraced dining area at the back, the landscaped garden worth enjoying in summer sunshine. Yet with its real fire cracking and popping in the grate, comfy leather armchairs, warmth and character, the bar area at The Manners is pretty hard to beat locally.