Jackson’s Restaurant
The Old Vicarage Boutique Hotel

Westhorpe, Southwell, Notts. NG25 0NB
Tel. 01636 815989
www.vicarageboutiquehotel.co.uk

Two courses for £10 on a lunch menu... as tempting as that sounded to the wallet I could not help but hear warning bells and feel a frisson of concern. The Gastrosexualist is not cheap but these recession days I admit to being more flash than cash. As great a deal as that sounded (let’s face it that is bloody good value) I was struggling to think of a quality venue serving up food at this price in the Nottingham area and one that could be trusted. As the cynic in the critic began to warm to his theme I tried to convince The Flower that, after a morning shopping in Southwell, I didn’t want the day ruined by a cut price lunch with second rate ingredients and budget cooking slaved to a marketing scheme. But the wife had heard exciting things. Well I can testify that on this occasion I was absolutely, emphatically delighted that she had her way. The Old Vicarage is a treat. The special lunch menu delivers fine dining excellence at a more than affordable price. The ingredients are top notch. The cooking is assured and delivers familiar, comforting dishes with flair. The lunch menu does exactly what it is intended to do: get the word out there, inspire positive word of mouth, it tempts you to make a future reservation and try the more expansive and expensive dinner menu.
So I was grumbling and not exactly receptive as the Beer Wagon made the short journey from Southwell’s shops and along Westhorpe. Yet The Old Vicarage won me over immediately. It had me with the sound of a long gravel drive crunching beneath the wheels as we pulled into the car park. A sound that to The Gastrosexualist equates to family gatherings and special meals, reminding me of visits to Grandparents and their old, rambling cottage; of those immense Sunday dinners, table groaning under the weight of all that food, stately dining with gleaming silverware and antique crockery, the best gravy I have ever tasted, my stolen sips of wine as a child, and the barely disguised dysfunction, subtle nuances and secrets that characterised our family gatherings. Yes, I’m a sucker for a venue with a gravel drive.
The Old Vicarage looks impressive and makes an impact with its stately exterior, driveway and fountain, but it is the interior spaces that really have the wow factor. We were welcomed at the door by a member of staff, chic and professional in a black dress, and led smoothly within, her heels making a reassuringly up market sound on the expensive flooring. The interiors have been thoroughly modernised following a two year renovation – an elegant reception area, two well-appointed lounges equipped with state of the art televisions (managing the neat trick of being both cool and comfortable), a showcase bar area which would not look out of place in a hip Manhattan hotel, and Jackson’s restaurant itself which is pristine and spacious with just the right hint of opulence to ease you into the mood for indulgence. By the time we were shown through to the decking where we had chosen to eat looking out on an extensive garden, I was reassured and certain we were in for a memorable lunch. Everything was so professional, so polished.
The Flower opted for a starter of grilled local Asparagus which came artfully served on slate, with a poached hen’s egg, parmesan shavings and grain mustard. Again that balance of style and substance, and the Asparagus was perfectly succulent. I chose a simple Caesar Salad served with some wonderful individual ingredients – tasty home smoked chicken, roasted garlic, fresh anchovies and quail’s eggs. A great dish treated sympathetically here, the mingling of flavours sublime. I could have polished this off as a main. We followed up with The Flower’s trusted favourite of Beer Battered Fish and hand cut chips with mushy peas and homemade tartar sauce. This met her exacting standards. I went with the Old Vic Burger served with cured bacon and homemade relish and a fresh salad. The burger (a good test of any kitchen) proved well-seasoned, medium rare, juicy and substantial bringing a smile as I remember it. Just today I paid £7.95 for a house burger at another establishment and found it under seasoned and bland in comparison to The Old Vicarage’s exemplary version. Again, simply unbeatable value and for £10 each the quality of the food was a welcome surprise. On a minor note of caution however, if you like a drop with your lunch like The Gastrosexualist then The Old Vicarage boasts a fabulous wine list but, boy, it ain’t cheap, and there are no draught beers for our ale connoisseurs. That said I was delighted to discover a personal favourite on the list, the Stump Jump Shiraz 2007. A couple of large glasses of this heady number with its touch of cocoa and spicy wallop of cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit will prove more expensive than your two course lunch. But by then you will be too happy to care.